Good Dog Week7-Day Plan: Stop the Pull Toward Other Dogs
An excited pull toward another dog isn't naughtiness, it's a dog who hasn't learned that looking at you is more rewarding than dragging you over to say hello.
Why it happens
- Most dogs pull toward other dogs because greetings have felt exciting and rewarding in the past.
- Pulling gets practised on every walk, so it's a well-rehearsed habit that needs a new one to replace it.
- Dogs learn fastest at a distance where they can still think, not right next to the exciting thing.
What you need
- Small, soft, high-value treats your dog rarely gets otherwise
- A flat harness or well-fitted collar and a standard leash (no retractable leash for this)
- A treat pouch so rewards are fast
- Access to a park or street where you can control distance from other dogs
The 7-day plan
One short session a day. Stop while your dog is still enjoying it.
Teach 'look at that' at home · 5 min
- Show your dog a boring object, mark the moment they glance at it with a word like 'yes', then treat.
- Repeat 10 times with different household objects.
- This builds the habit of glancing at something, then checking back with you for a reward.
Practise at a distance with real dogs · 10 min
- Find a spot where another dog is visible but far enough that your dog can glance calmly, not fixate or strain.
- Every time your dog looks at the other dog, mark it and reward.
- If your dog can't look away easily, you're too close. Add distance.
Add movement · 10 min
- At the same safe distance, walk parallel to where other dogs might appear.
- Reward for glances at other dogs and for loose leash walking generally.
- Change direction calmly and cheerfully if your dog starts to lean or speed up.
The 'find it' game near dogs · 10 min
- When another dog appears, say 'find it' and scatter a few treats on the ground near your feet.
- This gives your dog something to do with their nose instead of staring or pulling.
- Use this any time a dog appears closer or faster than planned.
Shrinking the distance slowly · 10 min
- Only decrease distance to other dogs if your dog is calm and responsive at the current one.
- Move a metre or two closer over several sessions, not all at once.
- If pulling returns, that's information: go back to the last distance that worked.
Practise loose leash cues nearby · 10 min
- Reward your dog for walking next to you with slack in the leash whenever a dog is in view.
- Stop walking if the leash goes tight, and only continue once it's loose again.
- Keep sessions upbeat, not tense. This is about rewarding, not restricting.
Real walk, real dogs · 15 min
- Take a normal walk and use everything so far: distance, 'look at that', 'find it', and rewards for loose leash.
- Cross the street or curve away early if a dog approaches faster than expected, rather than testing your dog's limits.
- End on a win, even a small one, and note what distance worked best today.
Troubleshooting
My dog won't take treats once another dog is close.
That means you're too close for your dog to think straight. Add distance until treats work again, then build up more slowly.
What if the other dog runs up to mine?
Move away calmly, use 'find it' to redirect your dog's nose to the ground, and don't feel you need to explain yourself to the other owner.
Is this a management issue rather than a training one?
Often both. Choosing quieter routes and times while you train means your dog gets fewer chances to practise pulling.
My dog seems more fearful than excited around other dogs.
If you notice stiffening, growling, hiding or avoidance rather than loose, happy excitement, check with a certified behaviour professional, since the approach for fear is different.
When to get help
If pulling is paired with growling, snapping, or your dog seems frightened rather than excited, speak with your vet to rule out pain and consult a certified behaviour professional for a tailored plan.